DWM Publications > Table of Contents > Chapter Six

THE CLEAN WATER BOOK:
CHOICES FOR WATERSHED PROTECTION

How you care for your lawn and garden has an impact on the environment. Your lawn or garden may only be a small patch of greenery but all the lawns and gardens across the state have a major impact on New Jersey's waterways and ground water. Fertilizers and pesticides used on home lawns and gardens can be a significant source of water pollution. Taking care of your local waterway or aquifer starts in your own backyard.

Caring for your lawn in an environmentally sensitive way can increase its positive impact on the environment. When managed properly, a lawn can be an asset, providing the benefits of soil erosion control and even filtering contaminants from rainwater.

Starting with texture, lawns do best in "loamy" soil that is a mix of sand, silt and clay. Most soil texture can be improved by periodically adding organic matter such as vegetative compost, composted manure or grass clippings. In sandy soils, this helps retain moisture. In heavy clay soils, this helps lighten the soil.

Using fertilizers adds nutrients to the soil. However, the nutrients in fertilizers contribute significantly to water pollution problems in New Jersey. That's why it's important to apply fertilizer according to instructions at the proper time and rate so that you use no more than is necessary. Twice as much is not twice as good.

Test your soil before applying fertilizers. Soil test kits are available at most garden centers or contact your local Rutgers Cooperative Extension. Soil tests will show how much nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium your fertilizer should contain and whether or not you need to adjust the pH. The recommended nitrogen rates for your area are available from your local Rutgers Cooperative Extension.

Maintenance of the correct soil pH allows for the maximum use of soil nutrients by grass and other plants. Acidic soils (pH less than 6)can make essential nutrients unavailable for uptake by grass. The addition of lime to maintain pH is essential. For lawns, ground limestone can be added to the soil to maintain the pH between 6.0 and 7.0. The addition of lime makes these nutrients available as well as increasing the drought tolerance of the lawn. Lime can also improve the soil structure, make pesticides more effective and create a better environment for soil microorganisms and bacteria that help to convert organic matter to usable nutrients.

For pH preferences of other plant species, contact your local office of Rutgers Cooperative Extension or refer to gardening guides available at garden centers, bookstores and libraries.

Follow these tips when applying fertilizers:

Know your square footage so you can apply the right amount.

Calibrate your fertilizer spreader.

Read and follow the label directions.

Avoid getting fertilizer on sidewalks and driveways, where it can easily be washed into storm drains. Clean spills up immediately.

Watch the weather. Avoid applying fertilizer just before a heavy rain.

The numbers on a bag of fertilizer refer to the percentages of plant nutrients: nitrogen(N), phosphates(P) and potassium(K) in the fertilizer. In a 100-pound bag of a 5-10-10 mixture, for instance, there would be 5% (5 pounds) nitrogen, 10% (10 pounds) phosphate and 10% (10 pounds) potassium. The wrong amount of fertilizer applied at the wrong time can cause disease and weed problems, poor root growth or excessive top growth.

These nutrients are necessary for plant health and growth. Nitrogen is needed for healthy green growth and regulation of other nutrients. Potassium and phosphorus help proper root and seed development and disease resistance.

When you mow, leave the grass clippings on the lawn. The clippings decompose to fertilize the lawn and do not contribute to thatch in a healthy lawn. Leaving the grass clippings on your lawn also helps reduce the solid waste stream arising from yard waste. By cutting grass and leaving it on the lawn, homeowners can reduce the amount of solid waste put out at the curb and also return valuable nutrients to the soil.

Consider composting your grass clipping as well as yard waste and household kitchen waste. By composting leaves, fruit rinds, vegetable peels and other plant material, you can reduce your contribution to the garbage truck and also create a valuable fertilizer and soil conditioner.

Some locations are unsuitable for lawns due to soil types, steep slopes or light conditions. When tree shade prevents lawn growth , ground covers, such as ivy, vinca or pachysandra, may be more suitable plants.

As an alternative to large lawns, grow trees, shrubs, flowers, ground covers or other plants that are suitable for your soil type and climate. Consultation with either your local Soil Conservation District or Rutgers Cooperative Extension about suitable plants for your yard is recommended. Consider using native plants that are adapted to your local environment and will be less likely to need frequent fertilization and pesticide use.

Another possibility to consider is xeriscaping. Xeriscaping is landscaping for water conservation. Many towns in New Jersey have watering restrictions during summer months. The use of plants with low watering requirements will help your landscape remain attractive even during these restrictions. Frequently these plants also have reduced fertilizing and pesticide requirements and many are native species.

Study your lawn before applying any herbicides or insecticides. If you suspect a problem, ask your local Rutgers Cooperative Extension to help you identify the problem and determine whether special treatment is necessary. The preferred long-term strategy for a healthy lawn includes using sound management techniques, especially proper watering, mowing and fertilization.

Occasionally, insect activity may reach a level at which the use of an insecticide is considered. Careful spot application of insecticides may be necessary when high populations are discovered, if other control methods are not effective. Consider using Integrated Pest Management, or IPM. (See the YOUR GARDEN section for more information on IPM.)

The IPM method of controlling pests has been used by professional and commercial agriculture experts for many years. The emphasis of the program is not only on keeping pests at low levels, but also the judicious use of other pest control strategies so that pesticides are used less often, and the least toxic product is used.

Using IPM will require knowledge of the pest life cycle and habitat, as well as its interaction with its plant host natural enemies and competitors. A well-trained decision maker can answer these questions before a pest control tactic is used: Is pest present?, Where is pest located, and on how many plants?, When is the pest in the most susceptible lifestage? and Which control method is most effective and least toxic to use?

When deciding whether or not to use a pesticide, there are several things to consider. You need to decide if the amount of damage is unacceptable. The mere presence of a pest does not necessitate the use of a pesticide. Do you really need a perfectly weed-free lawn? If you decide there is enough damage to take action, consider alternatives such as biological controls or mechanical methods.

If you decide a pesticide is necessary, choose the right one for the job. Make sure it controls the pest in your situation. Apply the pesticide properly and be sure to store or dispose of any leftovers correctly.

For more on pesticides, see YOUR GARDEN section of this booklet.

First, maintain proper soil pH.

Plant the right grass for your location.

Test your soil before applying lime or fertilizers.

Use the right fertilizers at the right time.

Don't overwater your lawn.

Mow at the proper height.

Minimize your lawn area and consider using ground cover plants, shrubs and trees instead of grass.

Ground covers or wildflowers can also be planted on steep slopes to beautify the landscape and stabilize the soil.

Mulching can add nutrients, make the soil more workable, aid rainwater penetration and improve the moisture-retaining capacity of the soil. You should also mulch to minimize bare, exposed soil in your garden. Unprotected ground loses nutrients and needed topsoil much more quickly than planted soil. Bare soil places added stress on nearby plants by expanding temperature extremes and reducing available soil moisture. Mulch cuts down on weeds and the need for water. Mulch can be grass clippings, wood chips, leaves or black plastic. In addition to mulching, consider close plantings of different, but compatible, plant species to make the most out of your garden area. Winter cover crops are highly recommended for vegetable plots. Rye, barley and wheat are suitable for fall planting (two to three pounds of seed per 1000 square feet of ground). The cover crop holds the soil during the winter and adds organic matter to the soil when it is turned under the following spring. Shrubs or small trees can be planted to act as windbreaks around the garden to control wind erosion in sandy areas and to further protect bare soil from exposure to the elements.

Too much fertilizer can damage roots, and the excess can reach your local stream or aquifer and lead to water pollution. Avoid applying fertilizer on windy days or just prior to a heavy rain. For best results, always apply commercial fertilizers according to the directions on the bag.

In addition to these long-term consequences of pesticide contamination, acute pesticide poisoning can occur. Symptoms include headaches, dizziness, stomach and intestinal upset, numbness of extremities, spasms, convulsions and heart attacks. It is important to be extremely careful in handling pesticides and to use safe alternatives wherever possible.

Some pesticides that were once widely used have now been banned or restricted. These include DDT, chlordane, aldrin, heptachlor, dieldrin, lindane, silvex, and 2, 4, 5-T. Other pesticides may only be used on certain crops in certain situations at specific rates of application. This information cam be found on the pesticide product label. If there are questions dealing with pesticides, contact NJDEP’s Pesticide Control Program at (609) 530-4070

Integrated Pest Management allows people to take part in a interconnected, dynamic environment. Management is a far better alternative than "seek and destroy" elimination styles. IPM saves money compared to traditional costly pesticides, which need to be applied year after year. But, the best reason to institute IPM is that it helps to restore and maintain a healthy environment.

Mechanical devices, such as traps and tree bands, are not to be overlooked for insect problems. Traps which use odors or lightwaves are available commercially to catch caterpillars, moths, weevils and others. Gypsy moth caterpillars like to hide under burlap tree bands where they can be safely removed by hand.

Inspect plants for egg clusters, bean beetles, caterpillars and other insects early each morning. Hand-pick such pests and destroy them. The squash borer can sometimes be cut out of the stems with a sharp knife, providing you cut parallel to the stem and no more than halfway through.

Construct insect barriers. Place screens over the plants or wrap aluminum foil around the plant base to limit cutworm damage.

If you're having slug problems, place flat boards next to the plants. After the slugs crawl under the boards to escape sunlight, lift the boards and destroy the slugs.

Dormant Oil Sprays can be used during the dormant season to control scale insects, red spider mites, mealy bugs, aphids, and whitefly larvae on shrubs, evergreens, woody plants, fruit trees, shade trees, azaleas, roses and other ornamentals. Apply the oil according to label directions avoiding injury to desirable plants.

Milky Spore is a natural bacteria that kills the grub phase of Japanese beetles. The milky spores actually remain alive in the soil, preventing new infestations for many years.

Keep old sacks, baskets, decaying vegetables and other rubbish that may harbor insects and disease out of the garden.

Time plantings to avoid the peak of insect infestations. For example, plant squash as late as possible to avoid borers, which lay eggs in July. Keep a record of the date insect problems occur for future reference.

If all else fails pesticides can be used as the final step in IPM. It is important to stress that pesticides are a last resort, only to be used when all other IPM methods have failed. Pesticides should be selected according to toxicity level. The least toxic chemicals capable of doing the job should be used, and only enough pesticide to do the job at hand should be purchased. Proper storage and disposal is a must Pesticides should be applied to small, effected areas and not to the whole yard. Overall, the less pesticide used, the better.

Buy only what you will use for your current needs.

Be sure to wear protective clothing such as gloves, boots, and goggles.

Wash your hands immediately after applying the pesticide.

Apply only the amount specified on the label and only to the plants and areas listed in the instructions. More is not better.

Make sure people and pets are out of the area during application and until the spray has dried, or longer if indicated by the label. Cover or remove exposed foods, fish tanks and pet food and water dishes during and after application.

Never apply near wells, streams, ponds or marshes unless the instructions specifically allow for such use.

Never apply to bare ground or eroded areas. (When it rains, many pesticides bind tightly to soil and can be carried along with sediments to storm sewers and streams.)

Don't apply if rain is forecast, unless such application is otherwise specified on the label. (Some pesticides do need to be watered in after application.)

Spot treat when possible. This means applying the pesticide in smallest possible area.

Choose the least hazardous pesticides. Consider both the toxicity of the pesticide and how it is to be applied. Pesticides with the words "warning" or "caution" on the label are considered least toxic, and the signal word "warning" indicates higher toxicity than "caution." A low toxicity pesticide may be hazardous if sprayed over a large area. A pesticide with higher toxicity may be less hazardous if used only for spot treatments.

Clean your equipment properly.

Pesticides can seriously contaminate the local environment if they are spilled. If a pesticide leaks or is spilled in the garage, on the driveway or on other outdoor areas, do not hose down the spill. This will cause further contamination and may carry the pesticide to storm sewers or other water sources. The best way to clean a small spill is to:

Surround the contaminated area with dirt.

Sprinkle kitty litter, vermiculite or some other absorbent material over the spill.

Shovel or sweep the absorbent material into a sturdy plastic bag and put it in the trash.

Wear rubber gloves, long pants and rubber boots while cleaning up.

Keep pets and other people away.

Wash down the area (if a garage floor or other hard surface) with water or detergent after removing as much of the pesticide as possible.

You can obtain additional information on specific pesticides from the National Pesticide Telecommunications Network, 1-800-858-7378 (toll free number)

To report the misuse of a pesticide, call the NJDEP Bureau of Pesticide Compliance at 609-530-4132.

In a pesticide health emergency, call the NJ Poison Information and Education System at 1-800-962-1253.

For health related questions, call the NJ Department of Health at 609-633-2043.

For general questions about pesticides and their use, call the Pesticide Control Program at 609-530-4070.

If significant amounts of pesticide spill directly into water, notify the NJDEP Environmental Action Hotline, 1-800-WARN DEP (1-800-927-6337), or your local health department.

Pesticides should never be buried in your yard, burned or poured into storm drains or your toilet. Some pesticides and their containers release toxic fumes when burned or wetted, and sewage treatment plants do not employ the kinds of microbes that would neutralize the pesticide's harmful effects. Septic systems can be harmed by pesticides as well. The best method for safely disposing of pesticides is to avoid disposal by buying only as much as you plan to use and to use them up according to label instructions.

Federal law now requires that pesticides made for home use be labeled as to the appropriate disposal method. Again, it is essential that you read the label carefully and follow its directions. Consult your local Rutgers Cooperative Extension for guidance in disposal of older pesticides with unreadable labels.

Counties in New Jersey have organized Hazardous Household Waste collection days for unwanted pesticides and other hazardous household waste. Contact your county Solid Waste Coordinator to learn when collection days are planned in your county.

Consider using native plants or drought tolerant plants.

Start with healthy soil.

Choose physical, biological and cultural wetlands as a first line of defense against pests.

If you do use pesticide, carefully follow the label directions for use, storage and disposal.